If you want to get out of town for a day or two destinations close-by to Delhi don’t offer much relief.
I’ve just returned from Agra and, apart from the Taj Mahal, I gotta say it was also pretty shitty. I did however manage to see the Taj for free thanks to some sound advice from a local drug dealer (not something you get to say too often). After overhearing I’d not yet visited the Taj, he suggested to some americans he’d just sold some hash to they give me their ticket stub and i amble up to the gate claiming I’d previously forgotten my camera and could i please be re-admitted. Great! Works every time apparently, and i saved the the equivalent of 5 nights accommodation…
I received an Indian style search on the way in. After making a great show of emptying the contents of my bag, they sent me back to a cloakroom to deposit my knife, mobile, lighter and cigarettes. Second time round they uncover a previously undisclosed USB cable and send me back to the cloakroom. Third time they signal me to the front of the queue, check my bag again and produce my camera, some paracetamol and a packet of condoms (well, you never know!). They then proceed to make a great show of emptying the pack of jonnies on the table, inspecting each one and calling another guard over who smiles, winks, heartily slaps me on the back and waves me through. I imagine the crowd would probably have cheered if one of them had been used.
Anyway… “The Taj” was lovely at sunset. Big, shiny and red.
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In contrast I’ve enjoyed my time in the north of India, particulalry Leh and the surrounding areas. The Himalayas are massive. Really, really, really big. Huge in fact.
And the people are very friendly and chilled out.